Superbike
limped into Pakse, I believed it to be mortally wounded from the mileage I’d
put it through. I checked my emails in an internet cafe, had lunch in the
Indian restaurant next door then crossed the road. There was a tap on my
shoulder. A grin the size of Manhattan beamed at me. Jan, the gentleman I’d
shared breakfast with a few days before introduced me to the rest of his
bicycle buddies, Yanouch, Arthur and Cyrell (pronounced Surreal). Collectively
they are known as Zarmalouloux (zarmablog.blogspot.com). Jan kindly saved Superbike's life with a few
adjustments here and there, I decided to get a guest house as my brother hadn’t
replied to my previous email and Zarmalouloux came up to the balcony for an
impromptu sing song. The energy and passion they have for music is astounding.
They left to visit a waterfall the following day; I lounged around, ate at an
Indian restaurant five times in less than 2 days then joined Zarmalouloux when
they returned to Pakse. They played at every restaurant in town that night,
making a decent profit then we camped by the Mekong.
Zarmalouloux earning a living.
The Mekong at sunrise.
We spent the next 3 days cycling to the 4000 Islands on the border of
Cambodia where I’d meet my brother. It was really good having company on the road.
Their personalities complement each other well; they have a real sense of
solidarity. They share everything with each other and in the short time I spent
with them they treated me like a member of their family.
They have a
different rhythm to me. I’m asleep not long after sunset, I get up at sunrise,
I’m cycling within half an hour but I’ll take several breaks before the sun
gets too hot to pedal. Zarmalouloux casually get up when they feel like it
after a night of singing and chatting around the campfire. They juggle,
meditate, do lots of stretching, light another fire for coffee and don’t leave
until mid-morning. They pedal for a few hours without a break. They carry more
weight than me and although they go slightly slower than what I was used to I
found it hard going on the back muscles to cycle without breaks. Even if I
wasn’t planning on meeting my brother and going to Shanghai I would have found
it difficult cycling with them in the long term as they make their way slowly
back to France.
On our third
night of camping the police came with an interpreter asking us to go to the
monastery. They were plain clothed unarmed officers with no identification to
show who they were. They did not want us camping in the field because if
anything happened to us they would be liable. They initially claimed it was
because of the danger of wild animals but after a bit of interrogation from Jan
they confirmed what we had suspected. After a quick phone call to the police
chief they allowed us to camp so long as we put water over the fire at the end
of the night. I'm assuming it was the police who
came to my tent a few nights previously.
Jan truly does live in a Superworld
4000 Islands
The whole of
Laos has a slow pace; Dondet (one of the 4000 Islands) is that one notch slower.
It’s possibly the most relaxed place in the planet. Zarmalouloux and my good
self entered the island and camped on the field in the middle of the island
amongst the buffaloes and cows. Kids gathered around to watch the juggling and
hear the music. I met up with Alasdair and we spent most of the time lounging
around, chatting and playing football with the locals as sunset approached. After
two nights Zarmalouloux continued their journey south. I opted to stay with my
brother. It was sad to wave goodbye to Zarmalouloux. They shared everything
they had with me in the handful of days I travelled with them, they made me
feel 100% welcome throughout. The sound of the songs they played rang through
my ears for several days after, Colombia Tierra Querida and Rue De Paname.
Zarmalouloux preparing to head out to Don Det.
The buffaloes got a free concert.
Later that
evening, I sold Super Bike for 6 beers, two vindaloos and a big bowl of spring
rolls. I could have got more but myself and my brother were both full. I like
the ending. I sold my bicycle for curry and beer which I shared with my bro. Superbike was phenomenal. I met other people who bought bicycles in Asia
and it appears that I did get a bargain; I was in the right place at the right
time. Nevertheless it was still a scrap piece of metal. The people in the bike
shop laughed when I said I was going to Laos. They did not realize I was taking
a huge detour from the quickest route. I not only made
it to Laos, I only had 10km to go until I’d cycled the whole length of the
country. I’ve lost count of the amount of times I thought Superbike was on its
last legs but with a small adjustment here and there, it kept on going. It
creaked and cranked its way south, its wheels misaligned, its brakes falling
apart, the chain slipping every time I climbed a hill. It was a piece of shit and the further it got the
more I liked it. Superbike defied the odds, it was an overachiever. When I
bought it I was asked what kind of bike it was, my response was that I didn’t know, it had stickers
but I hadn’t bothered to read
them. It was only after a month or so that I realized its main sticker said
Super Bike and it had a smaller one along the back saying Super World. It’s
fitting. It really is a Superbike in a Superworld. I felt a bit sad after
giving it away. I missed my morning ritual of packing my bag in the morning and
tying it to the back of the bike. Pulling the bungee ropes as tightly as I
could toned my whole upper body and was the perfect start to the day. I missed
the freedom it gave me, I've seen possibly 50,000 smiles whilst on Superbikes dented old seat travelling through Asia, Superbike has given me so many phenomenal memories.
4000 Islands.
Sunset on Don Det.
Me and Superbike shortly before we parted ways, sad times.