The Lonely Planet says that the Guangdong countryside contains the most under-rated of all China's scenery. Judging by my train journey to Guangzhou I agree, I still won't go there though. Guangzhou is huge, it has a population of around 20 million in it's metropolitan area, China's second biggest I believe. Like Chinas biggest city Shanghai, I didn't feel it was overly crowded or congested. I reckon the urban planners in both cities have done a good job. I opted to see the city in a day then get a train to Hong Kong. The Guangdong museum was good, I stayed there a while and could have stayed there longer. I went up a tall building (600 metres) and that's about it. It's not easy cramming in a lot in a day.
Hong Kong is a nightmare. There is a maximum fine of $5000 dollar and 6 months in prison if you get caught smoking by the riverbank or in a subway. It's a far cry from mainland China. Everyone waits at traffic lights even if there is no vehicle in sight. It definitely feels like I've crossed a border into a different country. The differences between mainland China and Hong Kong feel a lot more profound than differences when crossing from one European country to another. I've developed a bit of a cold and felt a bit worn down. the one time I could do with clearing my throat chinese style and I can't.
I wandered to the riverbank then made it to the Chungking Mansions around 10pm and got myself a room. It's a fascinating building. The wikipedia page is well worth taking a look at. I won't say I like this place, it's the first place I've been to in China where I've felt a bit uneasy. I don't think it's dangerous, it's just got the potential to get ugly. My room doesn't have a window but I'm not really bothered. It's cleaner than a lot of places I've stayed in and much better than in the stories I've read about this place. The area around the Chungking Mansions is easily as multi-cultural as London and does have some charm despite it's decay. It is surely the only place on the face of the earth where National Geographic magazines are sold on the same shelf as dildos.
Hong Kong does have many similarities to Mainland China, such as the air quality......
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Hong Kong does have many similarities to Mainland China, such as the air quality......
The view from the Ferry that takes people from Kowloon to Hong Island.
The view from up Victoria Peak.
There's as much if not more western signs than Chinese ones. Roads are often only crossable via underground tunnels which double up as high end luxury shops. I ate at the worlds cheapest michelin star restaurant. I got prawn dumpling noodle soup for 30 H.K dollars. That's not much more expensive than a fish supper from Zanre's. It was pretty nice. Nothing special. Here's a handful of photos from my wander.
I did manage to escape the innumerable department stores to more interesting streets.
I name this photo 'air conditioning vents and some windows' quite poetic I think and very Hong Kongesque.
I think I haven't written enough to do Hong de la Kong justice. On the positive side it's well organised and full of fit birds. I don't have time to write too much because I'm knackered, my joints are all stiff, I'm sniffly and I will be getting some sleep then heading back to Guangzhou tomorrow. I hope to get to Guilin as soon as possible, work my way up to Jiuzhaigou and the south through Western Sichuan into Yunnan and into Laos.
Given the recent instability of Freegate Software, I may very well be in Laos the next time I make a blog update, some time in January. I'm looking forward to getting back into Mainland China. My first and hopefully last visa run of my life has been smooth enough. Adios.
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